Java Travel Musts: Hike the Majestic Mount Bromo

July 8, 2013

Mount Bromo, Indonesia Travel guide, Place other than Bali — Photo from Daily Mail of Mount Bromo spewing red smoke over the ashy Sea of Sand below the Spring of 2013

With over 120 active volcanoes and daily earthquakes, Indonesia is one of the most geologically diverse and fascinating places on the planet. While not the tallest of Indonesia’s many volcanoes, Mount Bromo has become one of the most iconic mountains in Indonesia for its picturesque, other-worldly beauty.

Mount Bromo stands at 2,329 and is easily recognized since the entire top has been blown off and the crater inside constantly blows out white, sulphurous smoke. The active volcano sits inside the gargantuan Tengger caldera – with a total diameter of around 10 km – and is surrounded by the Laut Pasir (Sea of Sand) that’s made up of fine volcanic sand. The overall setting is a sight to see – serene and beautifully other-wordly in stark comparison to the lush green valleys that surround the caldera.

Thanks to its ethereal beauty and easy accessibility, Mount Bromo is the most visited of Indonesia’s active volcanoes. Tourists can easily hike to the rim of the volcano – situated at 7,641 feet – to gaze down into the wonderfully surreal landscape and catch a sight of the spectacular sunrise that can be viewed from atop Mount Bromo.

Mount Bromo is located as part of the Tengger caldera inside Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park. This Tengger caldera is a fascinating area in which new volcanic calderas have formed inside a larger, and more ancient, caldera. There are five volcanoes inside the Tengger Caldera: Mount Bromo (at 2,329 meters), Mount Batok (2,470 meters), Mount Kursi (2,581 meters), Mount Watangan (2,661 meters), and Mount Widodaren (2,650 meters).

Once you’ve made the trek to the top of Mount Bromo, you’ll have breathtaking panoramic views of the Tengger caldera as well as all the way down to the Semeru group of volcanoes at the south end of the national park.

Mount Bromo Fun Fact:

This is admittedly more legend than fact, but it is fun nonetheless. According to local legend, Mount Bromo came to being in an act of unfulfilled love. An ogre was given the seemingly impossible task of digging the Tengger crater using half a coconut shell in order to gain the right to wed the princess he loved. He was to accomplish this feat in a single night.

When it became apparent that the ogre might actually succeed, the princess’s father, the King, ordered his servants to start pounding rice to indicate that the morning had arrived. Cocks began to crow and the ogre realized that he had failed. Before dying of exhaustion, he threw away the coconut shell and it became Mount Batok while the surrounding trench became the Sand Sea around Mount Bromo.

Hiking Mount Bromo

By far the most popular reason people come to the Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park is to hike the collapsed yet still intensely smouldering Mount Bromo. There are three mountain peaks located in the Mount Bromo vicinity, known as the Tengger Highlands. Mount Bromo is the most famous and located at the center of the Tengger Highlands caldera, surrounded by a huge, unearthly Sea of Sand. Guarding Mount Bromo from the north and south, Mount Batok and Mount Kursi emerged. The whole area is simply referred to as Mount Bromo by the locals.

The most popular option for travelers looking to hike Mount Bromo is to sleep in the nearby village of Cemoro Lawang. From the village of Cemoro Lawang, there are well-defined paths that will take you less than an hour to walk up Mount Bromo.

To get to Mount Bromo, simply take the left fork at Cemoro Lawang’s solitary crossing, then head down the ramp into the caldera and then across the caldera to the Hindu temple (Poten) at the foot of the mountain. From the temple, follow the steep path of 250 concrete steps that lead to the edge of Mount Bromo’s crater. It is a wonderful walk up to the crater, but in case you don’t want to walk, many villagers offer horseback rides. A round-trip on horseback costs 100,000 IDR ($10 USD) and a single trip back costs 30,000 IDR ($3 USD). Keep in mind that the views of Mount Bromo’s ethereal landscape are best just as the sun rises. The sun rise happens around 5:30 AM, which means you’ll have to be up by 3:30 AM to hike to the watchpoint in time for sunrise. Fortunately, the Mount Bromo area is oriented toward early-morning activity and there will be restaurants open and ready to serve you breakfast. Not-so-fortunately, it is really cold at this hour so make sure to dress warmly. Note: There are many guides and tours available to and around the Mount Bromo area, but the national park is easily explorable on your own.

Best Time to Visit Mount Bromo

The absolute best time to visit Mount Bromo is at sunrise.

As for the season to visit – plan to visit Mount Bromo during the dry season. The dry season in Java, where Mount Bromo is located, is between April to October. During this time, May to August are the best months with the chance of least rain.

Avoid visiting Mount Bromo between the rainy season since the slippery paths and volcanic mud and can make hiking around the national park difficult.

Also, keep in mind that Mount Bromo is an active volcano. How accessible it depends on the eruptive status so be sure to check the status before you head over.

How to Get to Mount Bromo

Thanks to its easy accessibility, Mount Bromo is the most visited of Indonesia’s active volcanoes. As such, Mount Bromo gets its fair share of visitors. If you don’t want to be surrounded by hordes of fellow tourists, its best to avoid major domestic holiday periods.

The major access point to Mount Bromo is Cemoro Lawang at the northeastern edge of the caldera. The village of Ngadisari sits on the road from Probolinggo about 5.5 km before Cemoro Lawang and marks the entrance to the national park.

The first step to get to Mount Bromo is to catch a flight to the nearest major airport in Surabaya, Indonesia’s second largest city. From Surabaya, there are a few established routes of getting to Cemoro Lawang but below is the most popular route:

The Probolinggo –> Ngadisari Route

The nearest big-ish town to Mount Bromo is Probolinggo, which is located on the north coast of Java around 45 km away from the park. This is the most common route since it is the most straightforward, albeit not the most interesting, route. To get to Probolinggo, you’ll take a shuttle bus from the Juanda International Airport in Surabaya to the Bungurasih bus terminal (also called Purabaya) in Surabaya city. From the bus terminal, you’ll take an express Patas air-conditioned bus for the 3-hour journey from Surabaya to Probolinggo.

At Probolinggo, you’ll find green mini-buses right outside the bus terminal that will take you from Probolinggo to Cemoro Lawang, Mount Bromo’s main access point.

How to Get Around Mount Bromo

From the village of Cemoro Lawang, you can easily hike up Mount Bromo. If you don’t want to make the trek, climb aboard one of the horses offered by the villagers and you can ride to the top in relative comfort. Another option is to hire a jeep to take you around the area.

But in all honesty, the Mount Bromo area is a beautiful place to hike – walk if you can.

Things to See and Do in Mount Bromo

Hike Mount Bromo

With its iconic collapsed top and smouldering smoke, Mount Bromo is the highlight of the Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park. Go at sunrise to witness of stunning views of the Sea of Sand and the surrounding misty peaks.

Visit the Madakaripura Waterfall

Legend claims bathing in the cool waters of these falls is the elixir of life. As such, the water here is regarded as holy by the local Tenggerese and used in their important ceremonies. Holy or not – it is a beautiful, serene spot with a total of seven waterfalls.

Visit the Poten

The Poten is the Tenggerese Hindu temple that sits in in all its mysterious beauty amidst the Sea of Sand surrounding Mount Bromo. This whole area has an oddly mystical allure that is not to be missed.

Meander Through Beautifully Colorful Houses

The local Tenggerese houses tend toward the wildly colorful. Walk around the village near Mount Bromo to take in this uniquely beautiful culture reflected in their houses.

Hike Mount Batok

Mount Batok is a beautiful volcano to the north of Mount Bromo. It is no longer active and has casuarina trees growing on it. Makes for a beautiful, serene hike.

Hike Mount Semeru

Located at the far south end of the Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park, Mount Semeru offers a challenging hike for the most serious and fit of trekkers. This very active volcano can be climbed over 2 days and it is advised you hire a guide to take you at least part of the way.

What to Eat in Mount Bromo

There are very few independent restaurants or dining options here – most restaurants are a part of lodges and hotels and you’ll most likely be eating where you sleep.

You can, however, find simple roadside warungs selling basic Indonesia fare. Most restaurants begin operating around 3AM since that’s when people start waking up to see the sunrise.

Mount Bromo Travel Tips

Mount Bromo is an active volcano and as such, its accessibility may be limited depending on its eruptive activity. At times when it is erupting, as it did in 2004, 2010, and 2011, parts of the area may be shut down and extreme caution is advised. In June 2004, two tourists were killed by rocks flung from a sudden explosion. Please check the eruptive activity before you plan your trip – the Smithsonian Institute’s Volcanic Activity Report keeps an eye on Mount Bromo volcanic activity and it is worth checking before you head over.

Mount Bromo is refreshingly cool during the day but outright cold at night, with temperatures sometimes dropping to zero during the dry season and rarely going above 5°C during the wet season. You can rent jackets and hats at Cemoro Lawang and at the Penanjakan viewpoint for around 20,000 IDR ($2 USD) but come prepared with thick socks, face masks, gloves, and blankets.

The path at the top of the steps up to Mount Bromo measures around 1 meter wide – you’ll really want to watch your step here. Make sure you bring a flashlight for your pre-dawn climbs and drink coffee or do whatever you have to to have your wits about you when you’re at the top. We highly recommend investing in an LED headlamp for these treks up Mount Bromo.

The steps up to Mount Bromo can also be slippery from crater dust so be sure you have shoes with strong grip.

There are reported cases of malaria every year in the lower foothills of the park. If you’re planning to camp in this area or stay around for awhile, please take the necessary precautions. Malaria is not a concern for those visiting Mount Bromo or the high plateau area only.

And as always – make sure you have travel insurance.

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Surabaya: The Second Largest City in Indonesia

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July 6, 2013

Surabaya, Indonesia, Indonesia Travel guide, Place other than Bali

Surabaya is the second-largest city in Indonesia, boasting a population of over 6 million inhabitants. The city is a fascinating mix of tradition and modernity featuring towering skyscrapers and crowded highways blended with the age-old cultural traditions of Surabaya’s many inhabitants.

As the capital of East Java, Surabaya serves as the main gateway into Indonesia from the east and has been an important trading port for centuries. As such, Surabaya is a center of commerce and most visitors here are here for business.

The city is a little lacking in tourist-y sights and most travelers in Surabaya are passing through on their way to more popular Indonesian destinations like Mount Bromo and Bali, for which Surabaya serves as a great gateway city.

Best Time to Visit Surabaya

Surabaya’s close proximity to the equator guarantees tropical climates year-round, with the average annual temperature at around 84 degrees Fahrenheit.

There are only two distinct seasons – wet and dry – and the best time to visit Surabaya is during the dry season. The dry season is typically from May to October, with the chances of rainfall being the lowest from July to September.

The dry season is hot and humid with a maximum temperature of 30°C and a minimum temperature of 25°C. There is minimum rainfall, so it is the peak season to visit Surabaya, as it is ideal for sightseeing.

The rainy season is November through April and the temperatures during this time is between a maximum of 30°C and a minimum of 23°C. There is heavy rainfall during this season. High temperature and heavy rain make it difficult to explore the place.

How to Get to Surabaya

You can get to Surabaya by plane, train, bus, or boat.

Surabaya’s Juanda Airport (SUB) is the second busiest airport in the country, just after Jakarta’s Soekarno-Hatta and you’ll be able to catch a flight here from domestic and international locations, including most of the major Indonesian destinations as well as Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Penang, Bangkok, Hong Kong, Taipei, and Guangzhou. The airport is 18 km from town and it’ll cost you around $7 to $10 USD to take a taxi into the city.
If you want to catch a train to Surabaya, that’s possible too but it depends where you’re coming from. Surabaya has two main train stations: Surabaya Pasar Turi and Surabaya Gubeng.

Surabaya Pasar Turi: For trains coming and going from Jakarta and Semarang
Surabaya Gubeng: For trains coming and going from Jakarta, Bandung, and Yogyakarta

Another popular option of getting to Surabaya is by bus or minibus. Surabaya has frequent bus connections from all parts of East Java and from major cities in other parts of Java and beyond. The main bus terminal is at Bungurasih and located around 10 km from the city. You can get buses going to Bali, Jakarta, Malang, Yogyakarta, and more.

How to Get Around Surabaya

There are a few transportation options for getting around Surabaya. There is public transportation, but the public buses tend to be very crowded and commuter trains are extremely limited.

Angkots (small minivans) are an option – being very cheap and plentiful – if you know the routes. There are also becaks (bicycle rickshaws) in Surabaya but they’re not so practical nowadays since they’re not allowed on the main roads.

The most convenient options for getting around Surabaya is by taxi or private car. Taxis are plentiful – prepare to pay around 20,000 IDR ($2.00 USD) for a cross-town trip and 70,000 IDR ($7.00 USD) to or from the airport.

There are also a lot of car rental companies in Surabaya and this is a good option to explore Surabaya on your own, without the need to figure out public transportation or depending on taxis.

Things to See and Do in Surabaya

Surabaya, the second-largest city in Indonesia, offers all the usual big city activities such as huge shopping malls and an array of dining options. This makes it the perfect place to stock up on must-haves like sunscreen and other essentials as you’re passing through in-between more remote Indonesian destinations.

Apart from shopping, here are some awesome things to see and do while in Surabaya:

Walk Around the Old Town Area

The Old Town area makes for a beautiful visit, with colonial buildings, Chinese temples, a lively Arab Quarter, an ancient mosque, and a tobacco museum to check out while you’re there.

Don’t miss:

Museum Sempoerna: The House of Sampoerna (HOS) was built by the Sampoerna company, the owner of Indonesia’s famous cigarettes. It is now a small museum with a cafe, family house, art gallery and the actual Sampoerna cigarette company. You can actually still see all the workers making and packing cigarettes – fascinating!

Make a visit to Madura Island

A short ferry ride takes you from Surabaya to Madura Island, a truly off-the-beaten-path destination for travelers. Even in Indonesia, Madura is synonymous with poverty since the island’s dry, infertile soil has led to the majority of inhabitants to flee the island and only around 4 million people now remain to eke out a living from subsistence agriculture.

This little-known, little-explored island offers an entirely different experience than the other popular island destination off of Surabaya (Bali) and visitors can witness bull races throughout the summer months and hear local lore of Madurese women who are famous throughout Indonesia for secretive sex techniques known as goyang Madura.

What to Eat in Surabaya

Surabaya has a thriving eating culture and you won’t go hungry here. There are tons of restaurants offering local fare and international cuisine and you’ll be able to find pretty much anything you crave.

As for local delicacies, remember to try the rujak cingur, a local salad with sauce and cingur, slices of cooked cow nose. Also, sample the sate kelopo, satay with coconut rasp.

Surabaya Travel Tips

Surabaya is a big city and you should take all the usual precautions. The city has a reputation among Indonesians for a mid-high crime rate and although there are few real dangers, be careful when crossing the busy roads and exercise caution when walking around at night.

Thanks to the traffic in Surabaya, if you plan on walking around the city – especially during rush hour – it’ll be handy to have a face mask to prevent breathing in all the air pollution.

And as always – don’t be without travel insurance!

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Bandung, Indonesia: Visit the Paris of Java

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July 6, 2013

Bandung travel, Indonesia Travel guide, Place other than Bali

Paris of Java often referred to as the City of Flowers, Bandung is the provincial capital of West Java and Indonesia’s third largest city. Its nickname comes as much from the beautiful flowers found around the city as from the fact that colonial Bandung ‘blossomed’ into a hub of economic and social activity in the 1920s.

During colonial times, Bandung was also nicknamed the ‘Paris of Java’ by the Dutch thanks to its European ambiance and sophistication as well as its resemblance to Paris. Bandung still retains that vibe today, as a beautiful city surrounded by lush Parahyangan mountains, rich with Tropical Deco architecture, and alive with some of the country’s best universities, artists, and musical performers.

As the city is situated on a plateau 768 meters above sea level, the weather is cool and balmy as well and Bandung has quickly become a favorite getaway in Java, as well as the perfect gateway to many other beautiful destinations nearby.

Best Time to Visit Bandung, Paris of Java

Bandung has two seasons – the wet season and the dry season. It’s pretty difficult to predict weather conditions in Bandung, but in general – the wet season lasts from around October to March and the dry season stretches form about June to September. April and May is generally okay, but there might still be occasional downpours.

It’s best to visit Bandung during the summer months – June to September – since rains can be heavy and cause flooding and blocked roads.

Bandung’s summers are also not as hot as the rest of Indonesia, which makes it a great time to visit. As part of the tropics, Bandung is fairly warm year-round but it’s located at a higher altitude and has slightly cooler temperatures than the rest of Indonesia, with its average annual temperature steady at around 24°C or 75°F. Keep in mind that especially in the higher regions – Dago, Ciumbuleuit, Gegerkalong, Setia Budhi Regency or Lembang – it can get pretty cold at night when temperatures can drop to low of 1°C.

How to Get to Bandung, Paris of Java

Bandung is located in the central highlands of the island of Java. It’s pretty easy to get here and you have a range of choices from taking a plane, a bus, or a train.

The easiest option, of course, is to fly in. Bandung’s Husein Sastranegara (BDO) Airport is only 4 km from the city and you can get there from domestic destinations such as Bali, Jakarta, Surabaya, Medan, and Pekanbaru, as well as international destinations such as Kuala Lumpur and Singapore.

Here are some airlines that fly to Bandung:

Air Asia

Batavia Air

Garuda Indonesia

Lion Air

Sriwijaya Air

You can also fly into Jakarta and then take a shuttle service to Bandung, which will take around 3 hours. You’ll have a choice between riding in a chartered van that will take you to your exact destination in Bandung for around $50-$75 (split between the passengers) or to go from one bus terminal to another for less than $10. There’s a range of choice when it comes to choosing shuttle buses to take you from Jakarta to Bandung.

Yet another great option of getting to Bandung is by train. Taking a train from Jakarta to Bandung is the slowest option (over 3 hours), but it’s also the most scenic. You’ll pass beautiful mountainous landscapes and intricate rice fields nearly the whole way there. You can buy train tickets here.

How to Get Around Bandung

There is basically no mass rapid transit system in Bandung. There are some bus lines but they don’t cover the whole city and if you’re visiting, it’s best to use taxis, becaks (bicycle rickshaws) and angkots (minibuses) to get around Bandung.

The cheapest option is taking angkots but they only have their origin and destination names on top and no route descriptions to speak of. A ride on an angkot only costs around 2,000 – 5,000 IDR ($0.20 – $0.50) but it can be complicated to try to learn the routes, especially if you’ll only be in the city for a short while.

A better option is to take a becak (bicycle rickshaws) or a taxi. You can hail down becaks and negotiate with the driver for a fair price, depending on the distance you’re going.

You’ll usually have better luck calling a taxi by phone than waiting by the roadside, just ’cause there are a lot of small roads in Bandung and not much space for passengers to wait. The taxi driver will come to exactly where you are for no extra fee, although there is a small cancellation charge. If you can’t call a taxi, ask around for the closest taxi waiting area.

Keep in mind that some taxi drivers may refuse to use meters so they can charge you a fixed price – you’re free to walk away if you don’t want this. Other metered taxis may take you on a roundabout route to get a higher fee. You can circumvent this by calling a reliable taxi company – we recommend Blue Bird and Cipaganti Taxi as they always use the meter and take direct routes.

Keep in mind that it takes awhile to travel in Bandung, even though the city is small. There is heavy traffic during peak times – morning and evening commute times, in particular) and it is a really good idea to avoid the roads during those times.

Things to See and Do in Bandung

Tangkuban Perahu

One of the most popular Bandung attractions is the 2,076-meter-high volcano known as Tangkuban Perahu. Its name literally means ‘overturned boat’ and refers to the peak of the volcano which resembles an overturned boat.

Keep in mind that it gets pretty cold here and be sure to bring a jacket!

Kawah Putih

Kawah Putih literally translates to ‘white crater’ and it is a striking crater lake in a volcanic crater around 50 km south of Bandung.

It is an absolutely beautiful sight, with mists moving in and out of the surface of the lake and the lake changing colors from bluish to whitish green or brown and surrounded by beautiful bleached white rocks.

Wayang Golek

Wayang Golek is an art form unique to Sundanese and Bandung culture. It consists of an intricate play featuring a cast of characters that are carved and painted on wood.

A “dalang” tells his story using these puppets – a performance you must see if you’re in Bandung.

Villa Isola

Built by an Italian millionaire and overlooking the city of Bandung and the Tangkuban Perahu mountains, Villa Isola is a magnificent structure with a unique Indo-European style.

Perfect place to walk around and enjoy the Tropical Art Deco architecture blending perfectly with the nature around it.

Jalan Braga

Jalan means ‘street’ in Bahasa Indonesia and this particular street is a must-visit while in Bandung. The street is lined with beautiful historical buildings, art galleries and a bevy of restaurants and small eateries.

There is an old Dutch bakery shop where you can taste original bread recipes from back in the day, cafes galore, and pubs where you can sample a variety of brews.

It can get pretty crowded so prepare to walk slowly and carefully.

What to Eat in Bandung

You certainly won’t go hungry in Bandung – there is a rich array of food available here, ranging from local cuisine to favorite international dishes. You’ll pretty much be able to find anything you crave.

Bandung Travel Tips

Bandung is a very popular weekend getaway destination especially for Jakarta city dwellers, so if you don’t like crowds – avoid Bandung on weekends and public holidays as the traffic can be seriously bad.

As mentioned above, Bandung, Paris of Java, also lacks a comprehensive mass transit system and there tends to be a lot of traffic so avoid the roads during the peak traffic hours – around 8 or 9 in the morning and again around 5 to 7 in the evening.

Bandung is as safe as any other city, but be careful with your belongings at all times and also keep in mind that traffic can get very congested here and exercise caution when walking among motorcycles and cars.

And as always – don’t be without travel insurance.

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Indonesia Must See: The Colored Lakes of Mount Kelimutu, Flores

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July 5, 2013

tri-colored-lakes-kelimutu, Indonesia Travel guide, Place other than Bali

On the uniquely beautiful island of Flores is the Kelimutu National Park, where the famous Mount Kelimutu volcano resides with its striking tri-colored lakes resting in its caldera.

These stunning colored lakes are the most famous attraction in Flores and an absolute must visit. They are without a doubt one of the most amazing natural phenomena in Flores, if not the world.

The Colored Lakes of Mount Kelimutu

Going from west to east, the first of these lakes is called Tiwu Ata Mbupu (Lake of the Ancestors’ Souls, Lake of Old People). This first and most westerly lake is located 1.5 km west of the other two lakes. The second lake is named Tiwu Nuwa Muri Koo Fai (Lake of Young People’s Souls, Lake of Young Men and Maidens)and the third lake is called Tiwu Ata Polo (Lake of Evil Spirits, Bewitched or Enchanted Lake). The second and third lake are separated by a steep, narrow stone wall of crater measuring 50 to 150 meters.

The three lakes vary in color from each other and each one changes colors irregularly, almost whimsically, lending the whole area a wonderfully surreal atmosphere that has led to many locals myths and speculations about the origin of Kelimutu.

Currently, one of the lakes is black-brown, another is green, and the last one is in the process of changing from green to red. When Dutch geologists discovered the craters in 1914, the colors were reported to be red, blue and white. A few years ago, the lakes were white, turquoise and red. In November 2009, they were black, turquoise, and a coca-cola brown. And again in July 2010, the lakes were resplendent in various shades of green. As you can see, they change colors almost as often as a mood ring on a teenage girl and the changes happen suddenly.

A popular myth suggests that the changing colors are caused by the neglected ancestral souls. The scientific community chalks it up to discoloration by sunlight and the varying mineral contents of the water from Kelimutu volcanic activity. Which explanation you choose to go with is up to you 🙂

How to Get to the Tri-Colored Lakes at Mt. Kelimutu

Mount Kelimutu is located in the center of Flores, Indonesia and is roughly 40 miles from the town of Ende and 52 miles from the town of Maumere.

Both Ende and Maumere have small airports with flights to and from major hubs in Indonesia.

Whether you arrive at Ende or Maumere, your destination will be to the town of Moni, a town located only 9 miles from the lakes and the usual base for visiting Kelimutu.

From Maumere, the trip to Moni will take around 3 to 4 hours.

For Ende, the trip to Moni takes around 1 to 2 hours.

Getting to the lakes is a little adventure in itself. You’ll first take the drive up Mount Kelimutu and then walk on foot for 1.5 km until you get to the foot of the 127 steps leading to the edge of the crater. It’s worth the walk and the climb – once you’re at the summit (1690 meters high), you’ll have an incredible, panoramic view of the three colored lakes.

When is the Best Time to Go to Mount Kelimutu

The best time to see the colored lakes is at sunrise. You might have to wake up as early as 3:30 AM to make it in time, but the dramatic atmosphere on top is worth the lost sleep.

For information on the best season to travel to Mount Kelimutu and Flores Island in general, check out our guide to Flores.

What to See Around Mount Kelimutu

The most popular attraction around the Kelimutu area is the tri-colored lakes, but once you’ve had your fill of the beautifully colored lakes, there’s still plenty to see and do in this region!

Explore Kelimutu National Park

Kelimutu National Park has an arboretum and a mini jungle in which you can see a variety of the flora and fauna of Flores Island. The arboretum consists of 78 types of trees, including several that are endemic to Flores like the uta onga, turuwara, and arngoni.

You’ll also have the chance to see some fascinating creatures endemic to Flores Island, like Hainald’s Rat, as well as some endangered animals like the Javan Rusa and Red Junglefowl.

Get to Know Moni

Moni is best known as the town most people stay in on their way to Mount Kelimutu, but this oft-overlooked town is a beautiful place to spend a few days. The town is surrounded by fertile rice fields, forests and hills which you can trek. There are also hot springs nearby, as well as a waterfall and swimming spot around a mile from town.

You can also find beautiful traditional weavings at the once-weekly Moni market or in the surrounding villages nearby.

Mount Kelimutu Travel Tips

Most travelers to Mount Kelimutu stay in the town of Moni, since it’s only 9 miles from the lakes. Keep in mind that accommodations here are very, very basic. Accommodations are also quite limited, so if you’re planning on traveling during the peak months of July and August – be sure to book well in advance as rooms tend to fill up quickly.

The best time to see the colored lakes at Mount Kelimutu is very early in the morning to catch the sunrise when the fog clears as the sun comes up. Trekkers usually have to be up 3:30 AM to be in time for sunrise. It is super cold around this time of day so dress warmly in clothes you can remove as it gets hotter throughout the day.

Bring your own snacks and drinks when going to Mount Kelimutu. There are usually vendors selling coffee and ginger tea on the trail and the top of the mountain, but it’s best to bring your own water just in case.

The trail up to the lakes at Mount Kelimutu is well-marked, but if you’re hiking before sunrise, it’s a good idea to bring a flashlight. An LED headlamp is helpful, too.

There’s a fence surrounding the lakes – please stay behind the fence at all times. A few people have fallen into the lakes and those that do fall in do not come out alive.

The area around the lakes has pretty much no share so be sure to wear a hat and bring plenty of sunscreens.

And as always – don’t travel without travel insurance.

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Visit the Abode of the Gods at Dieng Plateau, Java

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July 4, 2013

Dieng Plateau travel, Indonesia Travel guide, Place other than Bali

It’s no wonder this plateau is called the ‘Abode of the Gods’ – it’s absolutely stunning here. Up above this 2,000 meter-high plateau, you’ll see rolling hills stretching as far as the eye can see, spot boiling pits of mud, delight in the beauty of colored lakes, and have the chance to visit some of the oldest Hindu architecture in Java.

The Plateau is home to a handful of small Hindu temples built around 750 CE as monuments to the god-ancestors and dedicated to Shiva. Although it’s thought that there were originally 400 such temples, only eight remain. You can witness the earliest architectural usage of the Javanese demonic masks and marine monsters along the niches and doorways of these small temples today.

For non-archaeological experts, these small, simple temples can be a bit underwhelming – if it wasn’t for the beautiful scenic atmosphere surrounding them. The setting of these temples is what gives this area an other-worldly vibe. Mist-shrouded steep hills and sulfur-colored lakes lend the temples a particularly auspicious beauty that is unmissable.

The beautiful landscape of this volcanically active plateau, the fascination of witnessing the marshy caldera of a collapsed volcano, and the view of mineral lakes and steaming craters make Dieng Plateau a must-visit on your Java travels.

Best Time to Visit Dieng Plateau

Keep in mind that since the Dieng Plateau is located around 2,000 meters above sea level, it’s much cooler than on the surrounding lowlands. Daytime temperatures are around 15 degrees Celsius and the nights are even colder, at around 10 degrees Celsius.

It’s normally a little cooler during the dry season – from May to October – but there is significantly less rainfall during these times and is the best season to visit the Dieng Plateau, particularly in the months of June, July or August. These months tend to be the peak travel months to Dieng Plateau, but even then you won’t find crowds or hoards of tourists so it’s a very good time to go.

The rainy season stretches from November through April and although it’s a few Celsius warmer during the rainy months, the rainy season is not a good time to visit Dieng Plateau – there can be landslides and flooding that make traveling to and from the area more difficult.

How to Get to Dieng Plateau

The only way to get to Dieng Plateau is by land.

You can get to Dieng Plateau from Jakarta by catching a train or night bus from Jakarta to Purwokerto. From Purwokerto, you’ll have to catch another bus to Wonosobo, the main town on the Dieng Plateau, and then another bus to Dieng.

You can also get to Dieng Plateau from Yogyakarta by catching a bus from Yogyakarta to Magelang. From Magelang, you’ll take another bus to Wonosobo, the main town on the Dieng Plateau, and then another bus to Dieng. The trip from Yogyakarta to Dieng Plateau using public transportation takes around a day – if you catch all the transfers.
But the Dieng Plateau is only around a 4-hour drive from Yogyakarta. You can either rent a car and drive yourself or ask around at your hotel and local travel agents in Yogyakarta for a shared minivan that will do a direct route to Dieng Plateau.

How to Get Around Dieng Plateau

Getting around the Dieng Plateau area can be a bit tricky. One option is a door-to-door minibus that will take you from the main town of Wonosobo to the temples – it costs only 10,000 IDR ($1 USD) per trip and is a good option if you just need to get back and forth from those 2 locations.

Otherwise, your best option is to rent a car. A rental car – without a driver – can be as cheap as around $12 USD for a half day (12 hours).

Things to See and Do in Dieng Plateau

Watch the Sun Rise. Twice.

Watching the sunrise twice is a must see while visiting Dieng Plateau. You can see the first sunrise – the Golden Sunrise – from the tower at an altitude of around 1,700 meters above sea level. Then head over to the Hindu temple complex where the sun makes a second appearance – the Silver Sunrise – just a few moments afterwards.

Hit Up the Temples and the Natural Sights

It may be a hassle to get to Dieng Plateau, but it’s easy-peasy to look around. You can pretty much see everything – the temples and the main sights – in a day on foot. The main attractions are the temples and the geothermal area around Kawah Sikidang and all these attraction form a simple loop that’s easily covered on foot.

Start with the Arjuna complex, the small group of either Hindu shrines that are the oldest in Java, and enjoy the panoramic view of mist-shrouded hills and idyllic farmlands. From here, you can make your way to Candi Bima (Bima Temple) and then to Kawah Sikidang (Sikidang Crater), which is a fascinating pit of bubbling, boiling mud and strange, otherworldly-looking hot earth.

On your route, you’ll spot hot streams and small, steaming hot holes in the earth. As a volcanically-active plateau, this whole area makes for incredible, out of this world landscapes.

You’ll also stop by Telaga Warna (Colored Lake), which is a beautiful blue lake surrounded by mist-covered mountains.

Before you know it, you’ll be back where you started. 🙂

Dieng Plateau Travel Tips

Keep in mind that Dieng Plateau is an active volcanic region and check geological reports before heading out there.

As for lodging, you have the option to either stay in Dieng village at a homestay or commute from the main town of Wonosobo, which has better facilities. The latter is a good choice is a drive up to Dieng from Wonosobo is absolutely stunning.

Keep in mind that Dieng Plateau is cold. It won’t be so bad in the daytime, but bring jeans and a light jacket. As for the nighttime, there is no heating and your room might be extremely cold. If you can, bring a thick blanket and some thick clothes to sleep in. Thick socks are highly advised.

If you’re staying in Yogyakarta, you’ll find travel agents offering day trips to Dieng Plateau and Borobudur. This might sound like a good idea, but you’ll end up spending most of your time on a bus and will barely get to see Dieng Plateau – it’s best to take some time to explore this area outside of a quick, day-trip tour.

Last but not least – travel insurance is a must wherever you roam.

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Raja Ampat, Papua: The Amazon of the Oceans

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July 3, 2013

Raja Ampat Islands, Indonesia Travel guide, Place other than Bali

There are many things that are wondrous about the Raja Ampat Islands, but perhaps the biggest wonder of all is how a place this mystically beautiful has largely remained a secret.

But it won’t be for long. The Raja Ampat Islands was deservedly voted as one of the best trips for 2013 by National Geographic and described as an ’emerging island Eden.’ Truth is, that’s not an overstatement – Raja Ampat really is an underwater Eden.

Located just off the northwest tip of West Papua, Raja Ampat is a cluster of over 1,500 small islands, cays, and shoals surrounding the four main islands of Misool, Salawait, Batanta, and Waigeo, as well as the smaller island of Kofiau.

It is these four main islands that give Raja Ampat its name, which translates to ‘four kings’ in Bahasa Indonesia. The entirety of the Raja Ampat islands includes over 40,000 km² of land and sea, including the Cenderawasih Bay, which happens to be the largest marine national park in Indonesia.

Underwater, Raja Ampat has a reputation as the Amazon of the Oceans. That’s not a stretch, either, considering that there are reefs here containing more species than the entire Caribbean.

There is a richness in wild marine life unparalleled elsewhere and here, divers have the opportunity to come face-to-face with recent discoveries such as Raja Ampat’s walking shark and pygmy seahorse, as well as the whole array of more familiar underwater creatures such as manta rays, leatherback turtles, and bumphead parrotfish. Did we mention that Raja Ampat is also home to three-quarters of all known coral species?

Raja Ampat is not so shabby above water, as well. Imagine lush rainforests, sandy islands formed atop coral reefs, wild mangroves, and stunning beaches. On the Wayag islands, you’ll find steep limestone cliffs blended with dense jungles jutting out of cobalt oceans and lined with pristine white sand.

The lush jungle canopies mean you’ll get a chance to glimpse rare bird species while you’re above water. It’s worth waking up at before the crack of dawn to witness the wonderful mating dance of the endemic red bird of paradise.

There’s no doubt about it – the Raja Ampat Islands are paradise. And it won’t remain unspoiled for long – get here before the crowds do.

Fun Facts about Raja Ampat:

Raja Ampat’s name comes from a local myth of a woman who finds seven eggs. Four of the seven eggs hatch and become kinds that occupy four of Raja Ampat’s main islands while the other three become a ghost, a woman, and a stone.
The main occupation for Raja Ampat inhabitants is fishing since the area is dominated by the sea. Inhabitants live in small colonies of tribes that spread throughout the area.
Although Indonesia is a predominantly Muslim country, the inhabitants of Raja Ampat are mostly Christian.
On Raja Ampat’s Um Island, you can bear witness to bats circling the skies during the day and seagulls flying around at night. This little island is home to diurnal bats and dotted with caves.

Best Time to Visit Raja Ampat

Raja Ampat is close to the equator so you’ll find the temperatures don’t vary much year-round. Air temperatures range from around 25^oC (78^oF) to 31^oC (89^oF) but it can feel quite a bit hotter since the region’s average humidity is 83%.

The ocean is warm year-round, too, with an average surface temperature of 29^oC (84^oF). But in terms of best times to visit for water-related activities – like diving – is October or November since the sea is very calm during the autumn months.

Overall, though, the best time to visit Raja Ampat starts from October and extends until April. The best months during that period is from October to December. Try to avoid the summer months – June through September is monsoon season in this area and you’ll find yourself experiencing a lot of rainy afternoons.

How to Get to Raja Ampat

Papua is not as well-serviced as other parts of Indonesia, so getting to the Raja Ampat Islands is going to be a multi-leg trip.

You’ll first have to fly into Sorong, one of the largest cities in West Papua. There are flights into Sorong from several domestic destinations, such as Jakarta and Bali, as well as from a few other cities in Southeast Asia such as Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, or Davao.

Flights are offered by:

Sriwijaya Air
Merpati
Express Air
Batavia Air
Lion Air
Wings Air
Silk Air
Garuda Indonesia
Pelita Air

Including transfer times at either Makassar or Manado, the total travel time is around 7 hours.

Once you land in Sorong city, you’ll have to make your way to Waisai, which is the capital of Raja Ampat. There are speed boats available to take you there and it takes around one and a half hours to reach Waisai. There are also public boats that make the Sorong-Waisai route. There are 2 a day – one in the late afternoon and one in the afternoon.

You can either stay on Waisai Island or hire small boats to get to the other islands.

How to Get Around Raja Ampat

Wasai is the main island and there are longboats, speedboats, motorboats and dive boats that connect Wasai to all the other islands. If you want to get from one place to another on the island, you can either walk or take an ojek (motorcycle taxi).

Things to See and Do on Raja Ampat Islands

Dive, Dive, and then Dive Some More

There’s good reason why Raja Ampat is called the ‘Amazon of the Oceans’ – according to Conservation International, the marine life diversity in the Raja Ampat area is the highest recorded on Earth! Raja Ampat is repeatedly named as one of the top ten best dive spots in the world for this precise reason.

Thanks to the islands’ remote location, the coral reefs here are pristine and relatively undisturbed by humans. As for underwater life, marine life diversity is considerably greater than any other area sampled in the entire Coral Triangle, an area composed of Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines, Papua New Guinea, Solomon Islands, and Timor-Leste. Considering the Coral Triangle is the heart of the world’s coral reef biodiversity, that makes Raja Ampat the richest coral reef ecosystem in the world.

Raja Ampat is a must-dive spot.

Snorkel

If you’re not diving, snorkeling can be just as good. You won’t go as deep, but you’ll see plenty of underwater wildlife anyway. Swim with Manta Rays, sea turtles, and huge schools of fish – the Raja Ampat area is home to 1,508 fish species, 537 coral species and 699 mollusk species!Don’t forget an underwater camera!Catch a Glimpse of the Birds of ParadiseThese birds are beautiful. See them – it is worth every lost minute of sleep…and then some.

Bird of Paradise Raja Ampat — Photo from Discover Indonesia

Island Hop
There are around 1,500 islands here so you probably won’t get to them all – unless you’re highly motivated with a motor boat and an open schedule. Most people will get to several of the islands – find out the best ones and how to island hop around Raja Ampat. Kayak Through MangroversEnough said.

What to Eat in Raja Ampat

If you’re not staying in an all-inclusive resort or on a dive package, your dining options on Raja Ampat will consist of small restaurants, outdoor markets, and warungs (family-run cafes and stores).

A good option is to stock up on ready-to-eat, pre-packaged food in Sarong before heading to Wasai.

Raja Ampat Travel Tips

There are hotels and homestays on several of the smaller islands – if you’re staying on one of them, make sure you take your essentials with you! Many of the smaller islands don’t have shops so pick up things like toilet paper, snacks, and drinks!

It’s also always a good idea to make sure your adventures and possible travel mishaps are covered.

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Baliem Valley: Your Gateway to the Indigenous Tribal Cultures of Papua

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July 3, 2013

Baliem Wamena Market, Indonesia Travel guide, Place other than Bali

Papua is an incredible place and Baliem Valley, as its most popular and accessible destination, is no exception. Also known as Grand Valley, this valley measures around 80 km long and around 20 km wide and holds a population of 100,000 inhabitants.

The Baliem Valley was thought to be uninhabited by people until as late as 1938 when it was accidentally discovered by the pilot Richard Archbold. In the midst of an aerial reconnaissance flight, he happened to notice a deep, large valley situated among tall mountains and in that valley, he spotted clearly recognizable fields, an unmistakable mark of human civilization. The Baliem Valley and the Neolithic warriors and farmers who inhabit it – the Dani Tribe – were discovered by pure luck.

The 1950s saw the arrival of Christian missionaries into the Baliem Valley as well as the establishment of a Dutch government post. Beginning in the 1960s, Indonesia has also added its own brand of colonialism by bringing immigrants, government schools, police, soldiers, shops, cars, and bicycle rickshaws to the valley. These changes have all impacted Dani life, but their identity and culture have proved steadfastly resilient.

Nowadays, travelers from around the world make their way to Papua in order to explore the rich interior of the eastern-most region of Indonesia and experience one of the world’s last fascinatingly traditional tribal cultures of Dani Tribe, as well as the Lani and Yali Tribes.

Wamena is the main city of the Baliem Valley and is home to around 10,000 inhabitants who form a mix of Papuans, Dani, Yali, Lani, and other local tribes. Wamena is also the starting point for most tours and treks into the Lani, Dani, Yali, and Asmat tribal lands, as well as. These tours and treks range from local half-day walks to 30-day expeditions deep into tribal lands.

Click here to learn more about the Tribes of West Papua.

Best Time to Visit the Baliem Valley

As a rule, the further east you go in Indonesia, the drier it gets. As Papua is located as east as it goes in Indonesia, it is pretty dry here. This is good news since it makes traveling to the Baliem Valley feasible all year round. There is a rainy season but it is fine to travel during that time, although temperature might be a bit colder.

Overall, the climate here is pretty stable, ranging between 20 to 30C in the days and 10 to 15C at night.

But the best times to visit are probably between March and September, with August being the best month if you want to witness the famous Baliem Valley Festival that is held annually in Wamena. The various tribes living around the Baliem Valley area send groups to represent their traditions, dances and cultures and you’ll have the perfect opportunity to experience the richness of the tribal cultures of Papua. Not to mention, it’s a prime time to sample some delicious earth cooking.

How to Get to the Baliem Valley

Baliem Valley is located at the heart of Papua, Indonesia:

The only way to get to the main city of Wamena in Baliem Valley is to fly in from Jayapura.

The only way to get to Wamena is flying from Jayapura (about a 40-minute flight). That also means that EVERYTHING must be flown in, and local prices generally reflect this. As of March 2013, the only airline flying the Jayapura to Wamena route is TriganaAir. They don’t offer an online booking service, but you can purchase tickets by contacting their customer service or if you prefer to book online, you can make an online booking through Nusatrip.com.

Getting to Jayapura is relatively easy and you can book with:

Lion Air
Garuda Indonesia
Sriwijaya Air

How to Get Around the Baliem Valley

Getting around Baliem Valley is not so easy. There is public transportation is the town of Wamena but it mostly consists of the airport and minivans taxis that run along set routes. If you wanted to go somewhere not on the route, you can hire a bicycle rickshaw but the roads are not well-paved and there is a limit to where you can go on a bicycle.

Another option is to hire a vehicle (with driver) which will typically be a small SUV or a mid-size 4×4 pickup truck. Even with these vehicles, however, it’ll be difficult to get to places that have no bridges connecting them.

The best way to commute outside of the proximity of Wamena is by walking or flying.

Things to See and Do in the Baliem Valley

The most popular activity in the Baliem Valley is to trek along tribal villages and experience the lifestyle of the Dani, Lani, Yali, and Asmat tribal cultures. These tours and treks can last anywhere from half a day to a month.

But if you decide to stay in the Baliem Valley, around the town of Wamena before or after your trekking, there’s still plenty to see around here…

Shop the Local Markets

There are three major markets in Wamena and they are fascinating to explore. You’ll find everything from the usual marketplace fare – fresh produce and fruits – as well as an abundance of anything and everything that can be sold – clothing, canned goods, car parts, farming goods, electronics, and more.

You can also peruse local shops on the major streets – they sell locally-produced art, masks, costumes and various other touristy treasures you might want to scoop up before you head home.

Mummy Visits

When else are you going to get the chance to see a 400-year-old mummy?

Around 12 miles south of the main town, you’ll find a village located 200 years off the main road where you can visit with the centuries-old mummy.

Look Around Town

That might not sound like such a wonderful, but when the town is as different as Wamena is – it’s worth your while. You’ll come across traditional grass huts near the outer suburbs mixing among newer structures with metal roofs.

On the bridge across the Baliem River, you can people watch for a while. You’ll see locals washing clothes, swimming, fishing, and even digging out gravel. You might even spot some Dani and Yali tribespeople on their way to town to buy or sell in the markets nearby the bridge.

What to Eat in the Baliem Valley

You’ll find a variety of food in Baliem Valley from street vendors selling delicious soups, local versions of sandwiches, and even imported ice cream to upper-end restaurants offering broad selections of Indonesian, local and even international dishes. Keep in mind that local diners mostly offer local dishes.

Baliem Valley Travel Tips

Baliem Valley is a fascinating place to explore, but keep in mind that this really is off the beaten path. It is one of the last real adventures of earth and that means you’re going to be without a lot of the things most of us take for granted. Please keep these travel tips in mind before you visit and prepare accordingly:

Baliem Travel Tip #1

Even in the main town of Wamena, most shops do not have outdoor lights and there are NO street lights. It gets very dark, very fast after sunset so make sure you plan your trip around town so you can be back at your hotel before sunset.

Baliem Travel Tip #2

It’s a very good idea to bring an LED headlamp (or two). In fact, it’s generally a wise idea to bring everything you really need while you’re here: sunscreen, insect repellant, flashlights, a backpacker’s water filter and other basics. Everything – absolutely everything – that is not made here must be flown in from Jayapura and the local prices reflect this.

Baliem Travel Tip #3

There are no signs, no maps, and pretty much no facilities intended for travelers. If you are an experienced trekker, you might be able to trek on your own for a day or two, but we highly recommend hiring a tour guide/trek guide when you’re here.

Baliem Travel Tip #4

Wamena city water is NOT safe to drink unless boiled and filtered. If you’re trekking, remember to bring a backpacker’s water filter or something to boil the water you find in the natural springs that dot the countryside.

Baliem Travel Tip #5.

Alcohol is illegal and NOT available anywhere in the Baliem Valley.

Baliem Travel Tip #6.

If you see children – note that they love having their photos taken. Just make sure you show it to them afterwards 🙂

Baliem Travel Tip #7

There have been tensions between the Dani and the security forces and the Indonesian immigrants which have periodically erupted into violence (in 1977 and in 2000). Whereas travel in the Baliem Valley is usually safe, please keep this in mind and be aware of the security warnings issued by your country.

Baliem Travel Tip #8

As always – never be without travel insurance.

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Sumatra Travel: A Day in Medan

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July 2, 2013

Medan is the capital city of North Sumatra and the largest city on the island of Sumatra. With a population of around 2 million people, Medan is also the third largest city in all of Indonesia, right after Jakarta and Surabaya.

Its current population and status is surprising when you take into consideration Medan’s history, which dates back to 1590. In 1823, nearly two centuries ago, a British government official reported Medan to be a ‘small village of around 200 inhabitants.’ But soon the Dutch took over and the tobacco plantations they started flourished the village, expanding it to well above 80,000 inhabitants until it was made capital of North Sumatra in 1886.

Much like the rest of Indonesia, Medan has a fantastic diversity of ethnicities and cultures: Chinese, Javanese, Toba-Batak, Minangkabau, Mandailing Batak, Karo Batak, Southern Indians, Northern Indians, and many more ethnic minorities. Most of the ethnic groups exist have comparably-sized populations, so Medan has no single ethnic group forming a majority.

Medan is not really known as a tourist destination. As the biggest city in Sumatra with an international airport, Medan serves more as a convenient stepping stone to more popular destinations in Sumatra, such as Lake Toba or Bukit Lawang.

Still, there are quite a few interesting sights to see and things to do if you stick around Medan for a day or two!

Best Time to Visit Medan

The best time to visit Medan is throughout the year since the temperature stays within a comfortably warm range year-round (20°C to 30°C). It tends to rain year-round as well, but rainfall is heavier during the autumn and winter months of September to December. The rain comes quickly and leaves usually just as quickly and you won’t experience whole days of rainfall so even if it’s raining, you’ll be able to schedule around it.

What you do want to avoid are the big holidays, when it’ll be hard to find hotels and take double to triple the amount of time to reach popular close-by destinations.

How to Get to Medan

Medan is the easiest city in Sumatra to get to – which is precisely why it’s the most popular jump-off point to reach other destinations on the island. Both Medan’s Polonia International Airport and its Belawan Sea Port are visa-free and visa-on-arrival points.

The Polonia International Airport is located a short 15 minutes from the city and it has plenty of both international and domestic flights flying to and from it, including:

AirAsia
Firely Airlines
Garuda Indonesia
Lion Air
Malaysia Airlines
SilkAir
ValuAir
Mandala Airlines
Swriwijaya Air

A taxi into the city will cost you around 40,000 IDR ($4 USD) and a bus costs around 3,500 IDR ($0.35 USD).

How to Get Around Medan

Getting around Medan is pretty easy – there are becaks, taxis, and angkots to choose from.

Becaks are tricycle rickshaws – you know, these guys:

The price for a becak ride is between 5,000 – 10,000 IDR ($0.50 – $1 USD). Make sure to negotiate the price you want to pay.

Local taxis charge 30,000 IDR ($3 USD) and hotel taxis charge 35,000 IDR ($3.50) to pretty much anywhere to Medan.

The absolute cheapest method of public transport is the angkots (minivans) but they’re not very reliable and you’ll have to know or at least be able to ask about the local routes in order to get to your destination. The standard fare is 3,000 IDR ($0.30 USD).

Things to See and Do in Medan

Medan may mostly serve as a jump-off point but it also offers the usual benefits of a larger city. If you’re in the middle of a backpacking trip through Southeast Asia, you’ll appreciate Medan’s huge shopping malls where you’ll be able to restock on the sunscreen and mosquito repellant brands you can find back home.

But Medan has more to do and see than shopping. Here are some of the most popular:

Maimoon Palace

This palace was built in 1886 by the Sultan of Deli and is now open to the public.

It is worth visiting as it is one of the most beautiful palaces in Southeast Asia – you’ll find a mixture of Malay, Islam, Spanish, Indian, and Italian style elements blended into the exterior and interior of the palace.

Mesjid Raya (Grand Mosque)

Not too far from the Palace grounds, you’ll find the Mesjid Raya, an architectural beauty topped with an impressive dark dome.

The mosque is particularly stunning in the early morning light – remember to take a veil if you’re a woman visiting, otherwise, they will not let you in.

Marian Shrine of Annai Velangkanni

This is a fascinating church that is definitely recommended if you’re in the Medan area. What makes this particular shrine so interesting is that it is a Catholic shrine but with South Indian influences and with Tamil Hindu architecture. It is unlike any church you’ve ever seen before.

The outside wall murals feature scenes from the Book of Genesis as well as dinosaurs, outer space, and God. The church itself is no architectural beauty, but if you like ‘different’ – this is a must-see sight. There are neon lights, random color schemes and a sprinkling of kitsch religious ornaments, including a ‘Buddy Jesus’ statue.

Also a big plus: a fresh spring was discovered directly under the shrine of Our Lady and locals believe its water to have miraculous healing properties. Whether miraculous or not – it is clean, fresh water and it’s free.

Shri Mariamman

Shri Mariamman is an iconic Hindu temple devoted to the Goddess Kali and built in 1884 by Medan’s South Indian community. The pristine temple offers a peaceful and ornate interior.

A beautiful place to stop by on your journey through Medan.

Tjong A Fie’s Mansion

This two-story mansion is a Medan must-see for anyone who is interested in history. It was built by Tjong A Fie, a Hakka merchant who went on to own most of the land in Medan through his plantation. He was later dubbed the Majoor der Chineezen – ‘Leader of the Chinese.’

Tour the Chinese-European Art Deco style mansion for a direct glimpse into the riches that Medan’s economical and political elite possessed in the past.

Also fun places to check out are…

Merdeka Walk: A street full of pretty much everything you can eat from tiny streetside warungs to more high-end restaurants. Note: There are lots and lots of touts here.
Vihara Maha Maitreya: This Buddhist temple is the biggest temple in Southeast Asia.

Medan Travel Tips

Medan is a large city and whereas it is as safe as any other large city, you should also exercise the same precautions. Just keep your bag close and make sure you keep an eye on your belongings at all times.

The same rules apply here as elsewhere in Indonesia – sun and mosquitoes are a fact of life here so bring sunscreen and mosquito repellent (preferably from your own country since the local mosquitoes get immune to the local sprays).

It’s also a good idea to have a raincoat or umbrella since sporadic rainfall is a possibility here. If you don’t have those, though, you can also find them here.

And as always – travel insurance can a traveler’s best friend.

Where to Go From Medan

Medan is the gateway to the rest of Northern Sumatra and you’ll soon want to move on to more scenic places. Here are some popular destinations you can get to from Medan:

Lake Toba

This picturesque Lake Toba – known in Indonesia as Danau Toba – is the largest volcanic lake in the world and holds a small island the size of Singapore in its center. It’s the perfect place to relax and swim in the mineral-rich waters of the lake for a few days. You can reach Lake Toba from Medan in around 4 hours.

Berastagi

Berastagi is a charming, sleepy little village located a short distance (1.5-hour drive) from Medan. Berastagi makes the perfect stop-over town on your way to either Lake Toba or Bukit Lawang, but there’s plenty to see here too. You can hike out to the nearby volcanoes Sinabung and Sibayak and visit the traditional Batak houses of the Karo Batak tribe living in Berastagi.

Bukit Lawang

Bukit Lawang is the gateway to the Gunung Leuser National Park as well as the largest sanctuary of Sumatran Orangutans. This place is a must-visit for animal and nature lovers. Here, you’ll have the chance to jungle trek, tube down a river, and even spot rare Sumatran wildlife. Bukit Lawang is about a 3-hour drive from Medan.

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Island Hop the Beautiful Beaches of the Bangka-Belitung Islands

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July 2, 2013

remondong beach bangka island, Indonesia Travel guide, Place other than Bali

The Bangka-Belitung Islands are paradise on earth. The island group consists of Bangka and Belitung Islands, as well as a few other smaller islands. The main attraction of all these islands are undoubtedly the lovely, long, pristine and tout-free beaches lined with clear, turquoise waters that are surprisingly calm and shallow, making them perfect for snorkeling, diving, sailing, kayaking, and swimming.

Whether you stay in Bangka or Belitung Island, there are numerous islands just off shore – some so close, they can be reached by swimming – that make for perfect day trips. Here’s a guide to island hopping and beach exploration around the beautiful Bangka-Belitung Islands!

A Guide to the Beaches of Bangka Island

Bangka Island is home to some seriously beautiful beaches, but the tourism industry is not as developed here as on its sister island Belitung and some of the beaches are not so well maintained. Here’s a guide to some of the more popular beaches!

Parai Tenggiri Beach

This just might be the most beautiful beach on Bangka Island, but it is a bit commercial. There is a 25,000 IDP ($2.50 USD) charge per person to enter the beach. But apart from this – it’s paradise. Beautiful white sandy beaches with granite rock formations perched artistically in the shoreline.

The water is crystal clear, the sand is soft and smooth and empty of any sharp corals. And there are breezy palm trees providing shade. This beach will make you want to lie down and stay all day.

Tanjung Pesona Beach

Beautiful beach with pristine, fine white sands, crystal clear waters and an unobstructed view that seems to stretch forever into the horizon.

Matras Beach

Matras Beach is often considered the best beach on Bangka Island and commonly referred to as ‘Heaven Beach.’ The beach is around 3 kilometers long – perfect for those long walks on the beach – and it’s nearly 30 meters wide, making it great for a number of beach sports. And it’s all unspoiled, fine white sand complete with coconut trees to take shade under.

Remondong Beach

Thanks to its location, Remondong Beach is the perfect beach to catch the sunset. But that doesn’t mean it’s not beautiful in the daytime – it’s a slightly sloping beach that stretches around 4 kilometers long, covered in sandy soft white sand.

There are wonderfully shaped granite boulders and white sand everywhere as well as that perfect breeze wafting through the palm trees here. At low tide, you can even walk straight out into the middle of the clear blue sea.

Tanjung Penyusuk Beach

Penyusuk Beach is close by Remondong and a very unique beach. It has a natural slope to it and the beach is scattered with colorful stones. Large stones hold back big waves, providing Penyusuk with a natural sanctuary. And of course, there are crystal clear waters, fine white sand, and charm galore.

Pasir Padi Beach

Pasir Padi Beach is a sloping white sand beach with lovely calm waves, but the beach tends to be a little dirty. Still, this beach is worth checking out – preferably around meal time – for the delicious seafood restaurants that dot the shoreline.

Bangka does have some fantastic beaches, but Belitung is paradise – no trip to the Bangka-Belitung Islands are complete without exploring the beaches of Belitung! Here are the best ones:

Sendang Beach

The perfect north-coast beach to catch the sunrise.

Seru Beach

Beautiful, pristine beach with fine white sand and water so clear you can see straight through. Amazingly odd granite stones adorn the beach like large, floating gemstones. Seru Beach is in Penyabungan village, a 45-minute drive from Tanjung Pandan.

Spend the day climbing atop the bigger rocks and gazing out into the deep blue sea.

Awan Mendung Beach

Awan Mendung Beach literally translates to ‘cloudy sky beach.’ The shoreline shows a row of broken trees, which lend a unique ambience to this remote beach.

Pantai Tanjung Tinggi

This is going to be the beach most recommended to you while you’re in Belitung. It’s in the northwestern corner of the island and its claim to fame is that it was the beach featured in the famous Laskar Pelangi. The beautiful beach is stunning – white sands and turquoise waters are set off by two peninsulas with artistic granite boulders.

Photos of Tanjung Tinggi, Belitung Island — This photo of Tanjung Tinggi is courtesy of TripAdvisor

There’s also plenty to explore underwater here – the calm, clear waters make it an ideal snorkeling spot.

Panti Tanjung Kelayang

This is probably the longest beach in Belitung – measuring at around 1.2 kilometers long. Beautiful place to take in granite boulders on the southern end as well as explore several small nearby islands, which make the perfect snorkeling spots.

Thanks to its proximity to the nearby islands, Panti Tanjung Kelayang is used as the jump-off spot for island hopping trips.

Pantai Burung Mandi

Pantai Burung Mandi, aka ‘bird bath beach’ is on the northeast corner of Belitung and the site of an ancient harbor used by the Dutch and Chinese over 200 years ago. Now, as the site of an annual outrigger sailboat race, you’ll find hundreds of picturesque Manggar outrigger boats parked along the beach.

Punai Beach

This little-known beach is the perfect beach-side retreat. Located a little over 90km from Tanjung Pandan, Punai Beach is at the south end of the island. As of now, the people are mostly fisherman looking for fresh fish. You can, of course, buy these fresh fish from the fisherman for a tasty lunch.

This is a great beach for swimming, fishing, and snorkeling as well. Or just relax and contemplate the array of granite rocks decorating the shoreline.

All these beaches on the island of Belitung are lively, but no trip to Belitung would be complete without island hopping…

Lengkuas Island

You’ll find both natural beauty and a wealth of culture on Lengkuas Island. The tiny island is a 30-minute boat ride from Belitung Island and once you arrive, you’ll find a beautiful island of white sands, turquoise waters as well as a Lighthouse that was built by the Dutch in 1882.

Photos of Lengkuas Beach, Belitung Island — This photo of Lengkuas Beach is courtesy of TripAdvisor

Wash your feet with fresh water and climb the 199 steps to get breathtaking views of the entire island. Cool down afterwards with a swim and some snorkeling. Walk around and chat with the locals while enjoying some local seafood afterwards – Lengkuas Island is the only island apart from Kepayang Island (below) on which people live so take advantage of it!

Batu Berlayar Island

Striking island full of those odd and wonderful granite rocks – huge, looming, and striking.

Pasir Island

Pasir Island disappears at high tide so you’ll have to time it right – the entire island is just sand with turquoise waters all around.

Kepayang Island

This is our favorite island among a group of favorite islands around Belitung. Kepayang is the largest island among the handful of exotic islands along the northwestern coast of Belitung and is also referred to as Babi (‘pig’) island. This is the only island apart from Lengkuas Island where people actually live. You can reach Kelayang in around 10 minutes from Belitung, usually with a stopover at sandy Pasir Island.

Much like the rest of the Belitung islands, there are gorgeous beaches here – white sand, clear turquoise waters – but Kepayang elevates itself above the rest in a few ways:

It is home to the Kepayang Island Conservation Center where you can tour a turtle sanctuary where baby turtles are bred and kept ’til they’re strong enough for the sea. There’s also a beautiful coral garden built and maintained here in an attempt to restore the coral reef that’s been threatened by the local fishing activity.
Diving. Fantastic diving. Kepayang has a Dive Center that rents diving equipment and has qualified dive guides is necessary.
Scenery: The granite boulder formation on this island is nothing short of stunning. You can make your way from Kepayang to a tiny island just off its southwestern coast – this little island is named Babi Kecil and it around twice the size of a tennis court. The entire island is full of coconut trees and granite boulders covering pretty much the entire surface of the island. It is an incredible sight. As for underwater, there are great coral reefs here – bring a snorkel!
From in front of the dive center, there’s a white sand beach where you can see the Lengkuas Island Lighthouse and the sunset at the same time…perfection.

In case you get the urge to stay around on Kepayang Islands for a while, here are some accommodations offered by the Conservation Center.

Make sure you have travel insurance and enjoy the heck out of this paradise while you’re here! Happy traveling!

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Bangka-Belitung Islands: The Caribbean of the East

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July 2, 2013

belitung island, Indonesia Travel guide, Place other than Bali

Sumatra is fairly well-known internationally as a resource and natural beauty-rich island, but did you know that it also has several smaller and exquisitely beautiful islands not far from its coast?

Some of the most beautiful of these islands is known as the Bangka-Belitung Islands, cutely abbreviated Babel. This group of islands is composed of Bangka Island, Belitung Island, and a handful of other smaller islands. They’re located in the Java Sea, off the east coast of Sumatra.

Economically, this island is known for its pepper and its tin. But for travelers, the Bangka-Belitung islands conjures images of white sand, crystal clear turquoise waters, colorful coral reefs and giant granite rock formations that complete the beauty of its landscape.

Belitung, in particular, has some of the most beautiful, most pristine beaches of Southeast Asia. And it’s managed to remain mostly a secret but it won’t be for long – beautiful white sand edging turquoise calm seas complete with a lovely long dry season full of sunny skies will eventually draw crowds. Go now before it’s too late.

About Bangka Island

Bangka is the main part of the Bangka-Belitung province of Sumatra, but it remains mostly overshadowed by its sister island Belitung. That said, the beaches in Bangka are beautiful but because the island is not being promoted as much as Belitung, there is a poorer infrastructure.

The island is home to around 1 million inhabitants, most of whom are Malays and Chinese. Most of the beautiful island consists of lower plains, swamps, small hills, pristine beaches, white pepper fields and tin mines. As such, the majority of the local population works on the palm and rubber plantations, tin mines, pepper farms, or are fishermen.

Bangka Island has a rich history – the island was originally ceded to Britain by the sultan of Palembang in 1812 but just two years later, the British exchanged Bangka Island for Cochin, India with the Dutch. WWII brought the Japanese, who occupied the island from 1942 to 1945, during which time Bangka became famous for the Bangka Island massacre in which the Japanese massacred Australian nurses as well as British and Australian servicemen and civilians. Bangka only became a part of independent Indonesia in 1949.

Fun facts about Bangka Island:

This island is reputedly the setting for the book Lord Jim by Joseph Conrad
Bangka is home to a number Indonesian communists who have been under house arrest since the 1960s anti-Communist purge and are still not permitted to leave the island
There is another small island that goes by the same name – Palau Bangka – but is located in northern Sulawesi

About Belitung Island

Belitung is a medium-sized island of around 7,800 km2. Its geography consists of moderately rugged terrain and several hills. Its best known for its calm and shallow turquoise blue seas and its smattering of abstract granite boulders.

The island is home to around 200,000 inhabitants. The majority are Malays, but Belitung is also home to large populations of Bugis, Sundanese, and ethnic Chinese as well as smaller populations of Balinese and Maduranese people.

Belitung recently garnered nationwide attention after the release of a hit movie, Laskar Pelangi, in 2008. As of now, its turquoise blue waters remain so crystal clear you can see fish swimming – head over while you can!

Fun facts about Belitung Island:

Belitung’s English name is Billiton and it is this little-known island’s tin mines that gave their name to Australian mining giant BHP Billiton
Every December, there is a 300km bike race around the island called Tour d’Belitung
Belitung has a stone that can not be found anywhere else. It’s called the satam stone – black meteorite – and locals believe it has the power to block evil forces. Prices start at around $17 USD.
Every autumn (around October/November), the island hosts an outrigger sailboat race and a sand statute competition.

Best Time to Visit the Bangka-Belitung Islands

The best time to visit the Bangka-Belitung Islands is during the dry season (April – October) when it is sunny and also windy. The rainy season translates to less wind but it tends to rain on most afternoons. In between rains, there are still beautiful skies.

It’s a good idea to avoid the school holiday months of June and July as there’s a hike in local tourism during those months.

How to Get to the Bangka-Belitung Islands

You can reach both Pangkal Pinang in Bangka and Tanjung Pandan in Belitung pretty easily from the rest of Indonesia. There are frequent flights to and from Jakarta on both Garuda Indonesia and Lion Air. You’ll also find a few flights to and from Palembang with Sriwijaya Air.

You can also travel by ferry from Palembang to Bangka as there are high-speed ferries making the route from Boom Baru (just 2 km from Palembang’s city center) to Mentok port in Bangka. Mentok port is conveniently located in the northeastern part of Bangka where the most beautiful beaches also happen to be. From the port, you can jump on a bus that will drop you off outside your hotel.

If you want to take another ferry from Bangka to Belitung, you’ll have to get down to Bangka’s capital, Pangalpinang, which takes around 3 to 4 hours from Mentok. Just go another 4km south of Pangalpinang to Pangkal Balam Port and you can board Hydrofoils going to Belitung and even Jakarta.

How to Get Around the Bangka-Belitung Islands

Bangka has taxis as well as mini-buses that drive all over the island but the public transportation leaves much to be desired. It’s best to rent a car of a motorbike to get around.

The situation is the same for Belitung, although it’s small enough that pretty much any point on the island can be reached within two hours’ walking time from the main town of Tanjung Pandan. There are, however, no taxis or public transportation to speak of so if you want to move faster, you’ll have to rent a car or a motorcycle.

The rental car will have to come with a driver and both will cost you around 500,000 IDR ($50 USD) per day. A rental motorcycle is only around 50,000 IDR ($5 USD) per day and you can rent one from most resorts and hotels. The beaches are well-marked so you should have no problems exploring the island on your own.
If you can’t drive a motorcycle, some locals may be willing to give you a list for short distances for around 15,000 IDR ($1.50 USD).

Things to See and Do on the Bangka-Belitung Islands

The main attraction of these islands are the brilliantly blue, crystal clear waters lining the lovely, long white sand beaches. The waters are calm are surprisingly shallow, making them perfect for swimming, diving, snorkeling and just floating around.

But in case of paradise gets a little dull, there’s plenty else to do on these islands…

Things to See and Do on Bangka Island

Visit the Tanjung Kelian Old Lighthouse

The old lighthouse was built in 1826 and is a short trip from Muntok. You’ll find vestiges of WWII in the form of Dutch and British shipwrecks in the surrounding areas. And if you take the time to climb up the 199 steps to reach the top of the lighthouse, you can take in spectacular views of all the beautiful beaches of Muntok.

Soak in the hot springs

Pemali Hot Springs is a naturally created pool fed by underground hot springs. A whole recreation park has sprung up around these springs and there are hotels to stay in and shops to wander through. You can find the springs in Sungailiat, a laidback town in the northeast region of Bangka. You can also explore the Pemali open pit tin mines nearby.

Birdwatch

The shores of Bangka Island are popular with shorebirds during the migration period thanks to the island’s lengthy coastline. In the spring and early summer, you’ll have the chance to spot a variety of birds, such as the Javan Plover, Kentish Plover, Bar-tailed Godwit, Pacific Golden-plover, Malaysian Plover, Whimbrel, and Common Sandpiper.

Explore the beautiful beaches

Bangka Island is lined with gorgeous beaches waiting to be explored, not to mention the surrounding islands with their own bevy of pristine, untouched beaches. Check out our guide to the beaches of the Bangka-Belitung Islands.

Things to See and Do on Belitung Island

Visit Kepayang Island’s Conservation Center

Kapayang is the largest island among the handful of exotic islands lining the northwestern coast of Belitung. This beautiful island is a must visit while island hopping Belitung for its Kepayang Island Conservation Center. You’ll find a diving center here, as well as a turtle sanctuary with tiny baby turtles and a coral garden.

Snorkel

Snorkeling is fantastic Belitung Islands. The waters are clear, calm, relatively shallow, and since the island doesn’t get a huge influx of travelers, the corals right offshore are untouched and in fantastic shape.

Belitung diving — Photo from https://www.belitungisland.com

Dive, Dive, Dive

Especially off the northeastern coast off Belitung. You’ll actually be able to dive numerous Chinese wrecks from different dynasties here. In fact, one of the oldest wrecks in Indonesian waters was recently discovered offshore Belitung Island.

Explore Downtown Tanjung Pandan

You can also check out the traditional Bugis fishing vessels that line the wharf and the fish market and take a gander in the Tanjung Pandan Museum if you’ve got time.

Go Monkey Spotting

Belitung Island is home to the endangered Tarsius monkey – you can spot them at the Batu Mentas nature reserve. Sign up with a local tour that’ll guide you on a jungle trek to see the Tarsius monkey, followed by river tubing and even an option of a foot massage.

Get to Know the Culture

Belitung’s population may not be large – only around 200,000 inhabitants – but it is diverse. And the influence of the various cultures can be seen across the island. Check out the Malay-style wooden houses or the Bugis traditional houses on stilts near Bukit Berahu.

Meander through the Balinese community of around 200 families in the Balinese village of Giri Jati, which is guarded at the gates with Hindu architecture.

Also check out Kwan Im, a Chinese Buddhist temple dedicated to the sea goddess Vidhara and built in 1747 by the very first Chinese workers who emigrated to work in the tin mines of Belitung.

And of course, the Dutch imprint is still very visible here. Spend a few hours touring the many Dutch colonial buildings, shops, and government buildings in Tanjung Pandan and see where it ends by visiting the old Dutch Lighthouse on Selate Nasik Island, built in 1882, as well as a monument marking the independence movement against Dutch colonialism.

Beach Exploration & Island Hopping

Beaches, beaches, beaches – the beautiful beaches of Belitung are its main appeal and you’ll really want to explore every pristine beach on every sunny island while you’re here. Click here for a guide to beach and island hopping in Belitung!

What to Eat and Drink on the Bangka-Belitung Islands

You won’t find many stand-alone Western restaurants and your best options for Western food are the holiday resorts. If you like Southeast Asian food, however, your stomach will be quite happy here.

Take advantage of the islands’ fresh seafood and sample the array of yummy Indonesian seafood dishes like pempek (fish cakes in vinegar sauce), otak-otak (fish cakes), baso ikan (fish balls), and abon ikan (fish floss).

Oh, and you can’t leave Belitung without trying its traditional food – mie belitung (Belitung noodles). The delicious dish consists of Belitung-style noodles with shrimp, sliced potatoes and cucumbers in a thick, sweet sauce.

If you’re a coffee lover, stop by the city of Manggar – dubbed the ‘city of one thousand coffee shops’ and try as many as you can!

Bangka-Belitung Island Travel Tips

If you haven’t pre-booked your accommodations, prepare to pay in cash unless you’re staying at a more high-end resort. Most of the accommodations here are cash only so make sure you have enough on you.

Keep in mind that saltwater crocodiles are present in both the rivers of Bangka and Belitung Islands. They’re rarely sighted near popular tourist areas, but exercise caution nonetheless.

And of course – sunscreen and mosquito repellant are a must. The selection is not so vast on these islands so bring plenty of whatever you need.

Lastly – do not be without travel insurance.

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